The hidden jewel in the Mediterranean sea….. I have been living in this country now for just over two years. As an American I have had my own struggles on how things are done here (and of course the way America does things is the correct way….sarcasm intended of course) I’ve laughed at how different things are I’ve missed knowing exactly how to do things, I’ve cried in frustration, but most of all I’ve fallen in love. I’ve fallen in love with this coffee with the grounds still at the bottom, with frappes when it’s hot and humid, the smell of the Kleftiko, the people on the sea front with their televisions pulled out to watch the football game (Soccer for those Americans) and escape the heat. I’ve fallen in love with the simultaneous directness and warmth from the people, the hospitality, the view from Troodos, the salt lakes with their flamingos in the winter and the halloumi…OH the HALLOUMI.
If you haven’t figured out where I am yet, you clearly have never been here… because no one, no one forgets the halloumi.
This nation, this jewel in the Med is Cyprus. Named for the copper that was found in in this land. The history of this nation is exciting, varied and slightly crazy I will only go over the modern portion that I’ve experienced because as the Cypriots know there is not time for the others. I would be writing a novel. This island just an hour flight away from Tel Aviv, Israel, 45-minute flight from Beirut, Lebanon and an hour and a half to Cairo, Egypt. This nation is central to the Middle East and Mediterranean region. Conquered many times because of its strategic location the Cypriot people still hold to who they are and culturally it stems as a bridge between European culture and Middle Eastern culture. This hidden jewel has had its many trials. Of the most recent would be the Turkish invasion of the North in 1974.
I will admit that you may find my version of this somewhat in favor of the Greek Cypriots as I live in the south, bear with me.
The island contains the last divided capital in the world, Nicosia. The northern half of the island after the Turkish invasion is referred to as the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus. This “nation” so quoted because it is only officially recognized by Turkey, speaks Cypriot Turkish as their home language and contains some of the most beautiful points on the island. The southern portion of Cyprus speaks Cypriot Greek and has a somewhat European flair to it, as it is a part of the European union.
In 1974 when the invasion happened and the war broke out, there were Turkish Cypriots, and Greek Cypriots living on both sides of the island. They were neighbors, living side by side. Not to say there were no problems, as many of the Greek Cypriots were on the side of “Enosis” or the desire to become a part of Greece. This is what, in part, caused the invasion, as the Turkish government was concerned on behalf of the Turkish Cypriots. On that day many Cypriots from both sides fled their homes as bombs dropped in Famagusta, and troops moved in from the northern city of Kyrenia. (Girne in Turkish).
Many took almost nothing with them, believing this violence to be temporary, and that they would be able to return to their homes. This was not what happened. From that day in July the island has been divided, and while Cypriots no matter Greek or Turkish can cross to either side of the island, can look upon their family homes, touch them and some even go inside while another family lives there, they still hope for unification.
The political powers that be are attempting again and again to bring unity again. Though as with any division there are many ramifications to reunification.
My thoughts in writing this are not mostly to talk about the history but to draw your attention to this beautiful island, warm in both senses of the word (sometimes too warm in the temperature sense) passionate, and proud deserves to be appreciated and loved, not just used as they have been throughout history. I pray that even in a small portion you can feel my love for this island, this nation, and these people.
They are so much more than a strategic military place or a divided island. They are a people with hopes and dreams for their nation, their people and their families and I for one want to see these dreams come to fruition.
Wandering in the Middle East 