The Land of Extremes

IMG_8573The land of extremes. A place where opposites seem to attract each other and then reveal the beauty of paradox. A place where the beauty of the mountains takes your breath away especially if you’re high enough to see the sun coming down on the sea and port, where their clothing ranges from covered women to the bikinis you see on the beaches, where most people in the nation are at least bilingual and many being trilingual, where the people are simultaneously incredibly gracious while being incredibly direct, where 18 religious sects coincide and the people are beautiful…. I mean really it’s kind of unfair that one nation has so many beautiful people.

Okay now you’re asking…”How do I book my ticket? Where do I sign up? Tell me for goodness sakes where the heck this place is!”

Well my friends, this is Lebanon.

Surprised? I hope not.

In being here about six months now I have fallen, deeply, madly and overwhelmingly for this nation. The amount of diversity and beauty in this small nation, with just above six million people, is astounding. The beauty of this nation from it’s ancient ruins and deep history, to the Cedars, to the mountains and the sea is wondrous. As the “Paris of the Middle east” the Lebanese people I feel are also the elegance of the Middle East. The way they walk, and the way they present themselves, everything dignified.

And can I quick mention the Arabic? For those who think Arabic is a rough language I would venture to say you may have never heard the Lebanese speaking. Now I find all versions of it beautiful but the style of the Lebanese Arabic is smooth and fluid like the French that many of them also speak. *Swoon*

There is also this beautifully frustrating way that they are in their hospitality and directness. Beautiful because of the warmth and honesty that it allows people to walk in. The Lebanese speak their mind, whether it’s in telling you how beautiful you are to telling you you’ve put on a couple pounds, it is nothing but honest. Frustrating for this Midwestern American girl who would love to be invisible (which my strawberry blonde hair makes impossible here) and just observe. Nope not gonna happen…that my friends is rude. You greet everyone as they come in and you learn everyone’s names… and sometimes more. (Let the reader understand here)

Though this post may be short it is only because I am still in the midst of these paradoxes and am delving into something, somewhere so beautiful I need to steep in it before I say too much.

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With that said…. I am off to do more steeping

From the Midwest to the Middle East

“Some things are better left unsaid”  or “said”… but not out loud… or maybe not directly… for those in the Middle East. Ah the listening, watching and observing for what is REALLY being said. But this idea makes me wonder, is it divine providence that I grew up in the Midwest, and I made my way to the Middle East?

So I haven’t talked about it on here yet, but I am studying crisis counseling. Within my Crisis counseling studies I am taking a class on Cross-Cultural counseling. During said class reading I came across a “high context” and “low context” cultures discussion. Okay so here is the breakdown.

High context cultures are those who actually say 70 things, but expect you to understand 100 ( ie Asian cultures, Middle Eastern cultures most non western thinking cultures)

Low context culture is when you say 150 things to get the point of 100 across (ie Americans and most western cultures).

And here’s where my mind went to thinking. I am an American woman from the Midwest, South Dakota to be exact (east river- to be even more exact for my SD natives). My mind began running as I have been told that I flow easily with other cultures and was confused as to why, since South Dakota isn’t really known for being a home to many differing people…

then it popped into my head…. “MIDWEST NICE.”

For those of you not from the Midwest or those who have completely avoided the middle of your own country here is the definition of “Midwest nice” (also know pretty commonly as “Minnesota nice” –though I don’t think the Minnesotans solely can claim this—Sorry my Minnesotan friends)

Midwest nice:

I will refer to this quote which I found on a website from a Midwestern girl that sums it up pretty well :

In fact, people from outside the Plains think they can mimic us by elongating some O’s, but in truth we communicate far more in what we half-say, or fail to say entirely. To live in the Midwest is to experience two realities: the first, all sunshine and bland pleasantries among other potluck-suppering churchgoers; the other, a red-lit underworld where people relay vulgarities through the learned second language of euphemism, eye rolls and loaded silence.”

https://www.thrillist.com/lifestyle/nation/my-life-living-midwestern-nice

In other words we have become close to experts at saying something without really saying anything. I say close to experts because now I live in the Middle East, and I will gladly hand that trophy over, with a bow, to the real experts.

This is not meant to be offensive, in fact most often it’s nice. When my Middle Eastern friends actually notice that something wrong without me saying a word. Comforting really, to feel understood or at least that someone is watching out for you. Though, I will say that I think that my Midwestern upbringing has trained my eyes and ears to, not just hearing what is said but, taking in context also (ie body language, tone, setting).

In thinking some of this through I asked a few others who were from states that would be included in this “Midwest nice” land, and have gotten a couple of “yeah probably some” and from a friend from Iowa a resounding agreement that growing up in the Midwest was incredibly helpful.

So are you from the Midwest? Thinking about traveling to the Middle East? As the Arabs would say, “Yalla” come on!

You won’t feel alone here, there are a lot of us Midwesterners here in the Middle East… Something about it… yaknow just feels like home.

 

Are you from the Midwest? Feel free to comment and let me know what you think! 

For your enjoyment here are some clips from the movie Fargo that have some great quotes that perfectly illustrate “Midwest nice”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sb814rfwOOE — at 2:10 is the quote that sums it up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9n3k0gqtYgM — The whole thing is pretty Midwestern but the last thirty seconds are the real kicker.

Safety vs. Adventure Pt.1

Is it safe to travel in the Middle East?

 

Well I won’t be able to speak for every nation in the Middle East since I haven’t been to them all (yet), but I can speak to the one in which I live and the ones I’ve been to and from what I know from friends. I think that a lot of Americans live in fear of travel to the east because of the news that they see everyday of war, fighting and overall disarray. Now in some aspects it is true, but you have to remember the news generally reports the bad stuff, not the boring everyday regularity. As a single woman living in this region I have traveled alone more than once and have only felt really uncomfortable a handful of times. Join wisdom and adventure in your mind and let’s chat.

I will avoid giving travel tips as it may take entire post to do those. (which if you would like to hear those let me know!)

First of all my beloved Cyprus. Cyprus is the small island in the Mediterranean below Turkey, above Egypt and just west of Israel and Lebanon. For how lovely I think this island is I’ll refer you to my last post, which will also provide pictures. Cyprus is a sort of cross between European and Middle Eastern culture. Especially for an American, Cyprus would be a great introduction to the east if you desire to do more travel in Middle Eastern nations.

The next place I went was Israel, and have been there two times since that. Now the first time I traveled to the holy land I did go with a group of friends and we were shown how to get around and much of it was explained. This I would argue is the best way to go to a nation for the first time. Go with someone who has been before or a national. Now in this nation everything is modern.  They are not all riding donkeys, like in biblical times. With Wifi in many public places exploring is no problem. Now Israel, the West Bank and Gaza are a two on the US travel alert I am certain that it I because they are linked together. Having been to the west bank (Bethlehem) I can say that I did not feel unsafe, other than the sense of drawing more attention than I wanted to, but hey I’m pale, freckly, I have red hair and I live in the east, this is a common occurrence. Now in each of these places be aware and alert of your surroundings (you should be everywhere), but don’t be so paranoid, that people are looking at you because you look scared…. That will draw the wrong attention.

Next was Egypt. I will have to say that Egypt captured my heart. As many Egyptians have asked me since traveling there, how I found it, I told them that I fell in love with the nation, but could not explain it past that. Their response overall, “I understand what you mean.” The warmth of the Egyptian people is overwhelming at times, but invasive throughout society. Egypt and it’s people have a passion that is unassailable…see the revolution and Egyptian history… Now I had the privilege of being able to travel to Egypt the first time, with an Egyptian. By far this was the best experience. I got to stay with her family for a couple days and she helped me to learn some of the cultural norms and little tricks before I was on my own in Cairo for two weeks to do an Arabic intensive.

Now in Egypt as a single woman I was a little more wary, though that did not keep me down or inside. I simply followed what my Egyptian women friends did or suggested I did. The other thing I did as to draw as little undue attention to myself was that I dressed a bit differently. I covered to my knees (usually pants) and covered to my elbows.

I only had one time that I felt unsafe, as a guy followed me and kept trying to talk to me for about 3 blocks. But with some instruction from my Arabic teacher on how to tell him off, I felt confident that I would be able to if this situation presented itself again, which thankfully, it did not.

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Yes, that lump looking thing in the horizon.. that’s the pyramids!

Over all the main thing I am saying is listen to locals. Don’t go around being silly and bopping around being really American. Listen and HEAR what people are saying… Yes those actually mean two different things. This is a skill we develop and I am doing my best to develop better.

 

This is only Part one! Look for part two coming soon that will include my trip to Lebanon and input from some of my other single lady friends American friend who live in the region!

 

The Hidden Jewel in the Mediterranean

The hidden jewel in the Mediterranean sea….. I have been living in this country now for just over two years. As an American I have had my own struggles on how things are done here (and of course the way America does things is the correct way….sarcasm intended of course) I’ve laughed at how different things are I’ve missed knowing exactly how to do things, I’ve cried in frustration, but most of all I’ve fallen in love. I’ve fallen in love with this coffee with the grounds still at the bottom, with frappes when it’s hot and humid, the smell of the Kleftiko, the people on the sea front with their televisions pulled out to watch the football game (Soccer for those Americans) and escape the heat. I’ve fallen in love with the simultaneous directness and warmth from the people, the hospitality, the view from Troodos, the salt lakes with their flamingos in the winter and the halloumi…OH the HALLOUMI.

 

If you haven’t figured out where I am yet, you clearly have never been here… because no one, no one forgets the halloumi.

 

Cyprus_map_basic

 

This nation, this jewel in the Med is Cyprus. Named for the copper that was found in in this land. The history of this nation is exciting, varied and slightly crazy I will only go over the modern portion that I’ve experienced because as the Cypriots know there is not time for the others. I would be writing a novel. This island just an hour flight away from Tel Aviv, Israel, 45-minute flight from Beirut, Lebanon and an hour and a half to Cairo, Egypt. This nation is central to the Middle East and Mediterranean region. Conquered many times because of its strategic location the Cypriot people still hold to who they are and culturally it stems as a bridge between European culture and Middle Eastern culture. This hidden jewel has had its many trials. Of the most recent would be the Turkish invasion of the North in 1974.

 

 

I will admit that you may find my version of this somewhat in favor of the Greek Cypriots as I live in the south, bear with me.

 

The island contains the last divided capital in the world, Nicosia. The northern half of the island after the Turkish invasion is referred to as the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus. This “nation” so quoted because it is only officially recognized by Turkey, speaks Cypriot Turkish as their home language and contains some of the most beautiful points on the island. The southern portion of Cyprus speaks Cypriot Greek and has a somewhat European flair to it, as it is a part of the European union.

 

In 1974 when the invasion happened and the war broke out, there were Turkish Cypriots, and Greek Cypriots living on both sides of the island. They were neighbors, living side by side. Not to say there were no problems, as many of the Greek Cypriots were on the side of “Enosis” or the desire to become a part of Greece. This is what, in part, caused the invasion, as the Turkish government was concerned on behalf of the Turkish Cypriots. On that day many Cypriots from both sides fled their homes as bombs dropped in Famagusta, and troops moved in from the northern city of Kyrenia. (Girne in Turkish).

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 Mountain side as you approach the capital Nicosia (Lefkosa)

 

Many took almost nothing with them, believing this violence to be temporary, and that they would be able to return to their homes. This was not what happened. From that day in July the island has been divided, and while Cypriots no matter Greek or Turkish can cross to either side of the island, can look upon their family homes, touch them and some even go inside while another family lives there, they still hope for unification.

 

 

The political powers that be are attempting again and again to bring unity again. Though as with any division there are many ramifications to reunification.

 

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From the village of Lefkara (South Cyprus)

My thoughts in writing this are not mostly to talk about the history but to draw your attention to this beautiful island, warm in both senses of the word (sometimes too warm in the temperature sense) passionate, and proud deserves to be appreciated and loved, not just used as they have been throughout history. I pray that even in a small portion you can feel my love for this island, this nation, and these people.

 

They are so much more than a strategic military place or a divided island. They are a people with hopes and dreams for their nation, their people and their families and I for one want to see these dreams come to fruition.

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Just a sunset as I walked out of the coffee shop one night.

A Quick History: Modern Middle East

As an American growing up I remember mostly learning American history. Rightfully so as a country’s citizens should have at least, a working knowledge of how their country came to be. Being from the west, I only remember (not to say my history teachers didn’t try) learning incredibly (or what I have realized to be incredible) broad scrapes over the history of the eastern half of the world. After moving overseas, I began meeting and talking with people and realized how much more of their history they knew, not only that, but how much of other’s history they also knew. I also realized how much of this history actually informed the mindsets in the west. This made me, (as an INTJ) want to study and know more.

The Middle East is particular enigma to the westerner. There are many incredible layers of history that most Americans, who have a mostly western historical grid, don’t understand. Now, I do not claim to understand these either, what I want to do is share a few of the insights that I have learned along the way, either learned in study or in interactions with people. The first that I want to talk about is how the Middle East was formed. My thoughts are not meant to include all the details but what more of what I wish someone had told me (or did tell me once I got here) about the Mediterranean region in quick “snap shots” so bear with me friends

One of the things I have learned about this region, is that the countries that we know as the Middle East were largely formed after World War 1 by the Entente Powers. (i.e. Great Britain, France, Russia and Italy)

Before the First World War much of the nations we know as the Middle East were under the Ottoman Empire, ruled from what we know as modern day Turkey. The current president of Turkey Recep Tayyip Erdogan has stated more than a few times his desire to see the Ottoman Empire “reemerge.” But this discussion is for another time. Right now I’ll talk about how the British and the French were deciding how the Middle East would be broken up before they had even won the war.

Sykes-Picot agreement.

Before the Entente powers had even won the war they were dividing up the lands of the Middle East. The exploration, discovery, and broadening usefulness of oil was making these lands incredibly valuable and these world powers did not want to give up their authority after the war. This agreement broke up the Middle East by giving what we know as Iraq, Jordan and a small portion of the northern part of current Saudi Arabia to British rule or control. The French would then take what we know today as Syria Lebanon and part of southern Turkey. The French control of Lebanon is part of why many Lebanese today speak Arabic, English and French. The modern day Israel was to remain an “international” zone in order to allow anyone to visit the Holy Sites in Jerusalem and otherwise. (Egypt and Cyprus were already under British control at this time.)

sykes_picot_by_FT

Now when the finally did get to the end of the war this is obviously not exactly how it worked out. One, because there were other players involved by that time, and two because there was debate because Britain had ended up in it’s attempts to get the Arabs in Arabia on their side promised certain tracks of land to numerous people. Never mind the Balfour Declaration that was put forth promising a homeland for the Jewish people, birthed from communications with the growing Zionist movement.

Balfour_declaration_unmarked

Still not done dividing up the land…though they had not yet won the war, there was yet another “agreement” of the division of lands. This one is the “McMahon agreement.” (so quoted because I’m not really sure you can call it an agreement) These were letters that were exchanged between The British High Commissioner at the time (McMahon) and Hussein Bin Ali the Sharif of Mecca. Think of the Sharif’s geographic influence as modern day Saudi Arabia. In these letters the high commissioner agreed to recognize Arab independence after the war was finished.(More about these letters)

In the end these didn’t turn out the way they were expected, with the entry of the United States (yay America!) into the war and the disdain of American’s for the idea of imperialism, at the time, there was a push back for the British and the French specifically to be able to control these areas. This is where the “League of Nations” and the Mandated Territories come in.

(League of Nations, League of Nations Mandate, )

 This is how these nations were “directed” after the war. Certain countries agreed to over see helping the Middle East nations to reestablish themselves after the dissolving of the Ottoman Empire. Different “western” nations were given a “mandate” to help nations that were in the former Ottoman Empire to regain their strength. The mandated territories in the Middle East may end up being a whole article itself but suffice to say I wanted to mention it.

The wording in the Charters leans strongly towards the idea of, “the white man’s burden.” If you have never heard this term, the idea is that those we consider the west had the thought that they needed to “civilize” the east. Though this term no longer used I think the east feels the mindset still in some westerners. (Here is a link to the charter: see article 22- Link to the Charter )

Now, in bringing this out I am not saying that the west has nothing to offer the east. But I think we need to be just as aware of how much the east has to offer the west. One of the most beautiful things that I see living here, is the depth of relationships, and how relationships take precedence. I think in the west we have sacrificed relationships for automation and efficiency. Our “self-check outs” are a perfect example. Instead of the cashier getting to know you, because you shop at the same store, the same day, every week. We walk up to a machine and, are annoyed if we have to have the person come over. There are special gifts and talents that each nation, and each region has. Let’s learn from each other instead of grandstanding and trying to top each other. One of the ways that we can understand each other and come together is, learning each other’s history and values.

Comments and Questions are most welcome!

Maps About the Middle East(see map #7, #8)